Post by violetlover on Oct 8, 2004 7:17:54 GMT -5
A definite schedule for watering African violets is not desirable since frequency and amount of water required varies with soil mixture, drainage, light, temperature and humidity under which plants are grown. Type of pot used also has an important effect on frequency of watering, as plants in clay pots require more frequent watering than those in plastic pots since evaporation is greater. Decorative glazed pots without drainage holes are generally unsatisfactory due to lack of drainage. In general, water should be applied whenever the surface soil feels dry to the touch, but before it becomes hard or the plant wilts.
African violets may be watered from the top or bottom. When watering from the top, apply sufficient water to surface soil to thoroughly saturate it and discard excess water which drains through the bottom of the pot. Watering from the bottom may be done by placing the pot in a container to which about 1'' water is added. When the soil surface becomes moist, remove the pot and pour out of excess water. ``Wick'' watering may also be used.
Temperature of the water should be the same as that of the room or slightly warmer to avoid any chance of spotting leaves if water contacts foliage. Chlorinated or fluorinated water, if satisfactory for human consumption, is satisfactory for African violets.
Many completely water-soluble fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other required nutrients are sold for use on house plants and African violets. To apply dissolved fertilizer is to give the soil a normal watering from the top or bottom, then discard excess water.
Plant growth and color often indicate need for fertilizer. A gradual loss in leaf color combined with a reduced growth rate usually indicates that fertilizer is needed. If in doubt as to whether plants need additional nutrients, fertilize one or two and wait about 10 days to see how they react. If plant growth is evident and they become darker in color, the rest of the plants may be fertilized.
Old multiple-crown plants may often be successfully propagated by division. Carefully cut each crown away from the plant so that each plant has its portion of the root system. Each division is then potted in the soil mixture.
Old plants often develop a short stem which cause them to have a ``leggy'' appearance. Usually such plants may be successfully re-rooted by cutting the plant off at the soil level and inserting the old stem in the same medium used for rooting leaf cuttings.
New plants brought into the home should be examined thoroughly for signs of insects and diseases and kept separated from other plants. If they appear healthy at the end of about 10-12 weeks it is usually safe to set them with the other plants.
Control of most insects and mites can be obtained with insecticidal soap sprays. Mealy bugs may be controlled by mixing alcohol with an equal amount of water and touching each insect with a cotton swab dipped in the solution.
Cyclamen mites which causes a severe stunting of plants is difficult to control and where only a few plants are concerned, they should be discarded. If many plants are affected, Kelthane or Avid sprays may be used. Be sure to read and follow all label directions on pesticides used on african violets.
Various disease organisms may affect african violets from time to time, but adequate spacing of plants, use of sterilized soil, provision for good air circulation, prompt removal of faded flowers and unhealthy leaves, and control of thrips and mites are all important preventative measures.
Once a flower or leaf disease is noticed, spraying with captan or mancozeb will often aid in controlling the disease. Read and follow all label directions when applying a fungicide to african violets.
Root diseases usually result from over watering of plants. Symptoms may not show up on the leaves until severe root damage has occurred. In most cases with root diseases or damage the best control is to discard the plant and purchase new healthy ones.
Some problems caused by cultural factors include ring or leafspot and petiole rot. Yellowish rings, spots or streaks on the upper surface of leaves are caused by cold water touching relatively warm leaves. This can be avoided by using water at room temperature or slightly warmer than leaf temperature. Petiole rot occurs when petioles touch the edge of the pot and develop brown, sunken areas at points of contact. The injury is localized and does not cause the petiole to rot unless disease organisms enter the wound. This trouble is the result of chemical injury caused by the accumulation of soluble salts at the pot rim of clay pots. This problem can be reduced by using fertilizers sparingly and applying sufficient water to thoroughly saturate the soil. When water is applied to the soil surface, excess water and the salts will drain out the bottom of the pot. Petiole rot can also be avoided by waxing the pot rim or covering it with aluminum foil.
African violets may be watered from the top or bottom. When watering from the top, apply sufficient water to surface soil to thoroughly saturate it and discard excess water which drains through the bottom of the pot. Watering from the bottom may be done by placing the pot in a container to which about 1'' water is added. When the soil surface becomes moist, remove the pot and pour out of excess water. ``Wick'' watering may also be used.
Temperature of the water should be the same as that of the room or slightly warmer to avoid any chance of spotting leaves if water contacts foliage. Chlorinated or fluorinated water, if satisfactory for human consumption, is satisfactory for African violets.
Many completely water-soluble fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other required nutrients are sold for use on house plants and African violets. To apply dissolved fertilizer is to give the soil a normal watering from the top or bottom, then discard excess water.
Plant growth and color often indicate need for fertilizer. A gradual loss in leaf color combined with a reduced growth rate usually indicates that fertilizer is needed. If in doubt as to whether plants need additional nutrients, fertilize one or two and wait about 10 days to see how they react. If plant growth is evident and they become darker in color, the rest of the plants may be fertilized.
Old multiple-crown plants may often be successfully propagated by division. Carefully cut each crown away from the plant so that each plant has its portion of the root system. Each division is then potted in the soil mixture.
Old plants often develop a short stem which cause them to have a ``leggy'' appearance. Usually such plants may be successfully re-rooted by cutting the plant off at the soil level and inserting the old stem in the same medium used for rooting leaf cuttings.
New plants brought into the home should be examined thoroughly for signs of insects and diseases and kept separated from other plants. If they appear healthy at the end of about 10-12 weeks it is usually safe to set them with the other plants.
Control of most insects and mites can be obtained with insecticidal soap sprays. Mealy bugs may be controlled by mixing alcohol with an equal amount of water and touching each insect with a cotton swab dipped in the solution.
Cyclamen mites which causes a severe stunting of plants is difficult to control and where only a few plants are concerned, they should be discarded. If many plants are affected, Kelthane or Avid sprays may be used. Be sure to read and follow all label directions on pesticides used on african violets.
Various disease organisms may affect african violets from time to time, but adequate spacing of plants, use of sterilized soil, provision for good air circulation, prompt removal of faded flowers and unhealthy leaves, and control of thrips and mites are all important preventative measures.
Once a flower or leaf disease is noticed, spraying with captan or mancozeb will often aid in controlling the disease. Read and follow all label directions when applying a fungicide to african violets.
Root diseases usually result from over watering of plants. Symptoms may not show up on the leaves until severe root damage has occurred. In most cases with root diseases or damage the best control is to discard the plant and purchase new healthy ones.
Some problems caused by cultural factors include ring or leafspot and petiole rot. Yellowish rings, spots or streaks on the upper surface of leaves are caused by cold water touching relatively warm leaves. This can be avoided by using water at room temperature or slightly warmer than leaf temperature. Petiole rot occurs when petioles touch the edge of the pot and develop brown, sunken areas at points of contact. The injury is localized and does not cause the petiole to rot unless disease organisms enter the wound. This trouble is the result of chemical injury caused by the accumulation of soluble salts at the pot rim of clay pots. This problem can be reduced by using fertilizers sparingly and applying sufficient water to thoroughly saturate the soil. When water is applied to the soil surface, excess water and the salts will drain out the bottom of the pot. Petiole rot can also be avoided by waxing the pot rim or covering it with aluminum foil.
I think! ?